Juneteenth

One of our goals with Apocalypse blog is to intellectualise fashion — after all, everyone has to wear clothes, so what we choose to wear *has* to reveal something about ourselves/each other/society at large, no? I’m so glad you agree.

On the topic of education, let’s talk about Juneteenth. If you don’t know what Juneteenth is, I would first ask where you were during 2020’s racial reckoning. Then, I would be kind and give you a quick breakdown.

A group of Black children some wearing traditional African clothing and holding flags and drums presumably in a parade.

so...what's Juneteenth?

Juneteenth marks the emancipation of enslaved Black people in Texas following Union victory in the Civil War. While the Emancipation Proclamation was passed in 1863 (which was meant to free all slaves in the U.S.), there wasn’t much enforcement in the southern states until Union soldiers arrived in 1865.

Juneteenth is a great time to reflect on our social systems to see how Black communities are continually oppressed, even if this oppression is not blatantly coded as slavery. Juneteenth is an important day to mobilise the American populace towards enacting racial justice, and for white people to educate ourselves on how to be actively anti-racist and celebrate Black life.

So! In that vein: Let’s look at the role of antebellum slavery in building the modern fashion industry, and furthermore, the role that modern slavery plays in producing fast fashion.

slave-picked cotton fueled the explosion of the modern textile industry. 
-the rising popularity in Europe of cotton-based fabrics like calico and chintz, combined with innovations like the cotton gin, created huge demand for cotton in the late 18th century.
-colonisers discovered that the fertile soil in what would become the southern state was prime real estate for cotton plantations.
-over time, the cotton industry and slave trade grew together as cotton production relied on slave labor.

Two very old photos of Black women holding white babies. Below is written, "Household slaves, like the nannies above, sometimes received more aesthetically pleasing clothing based on their position."

enslaved people contributed to the fashion canon, and their contributions have largely been ignored from fashion history. 
-enslaved people subverted European aesthetic fads and sometimes led the way in setting new trends, blending traditional dress practices from Europe with military uniforms or African headwear.
-camp, a rather confusing concept that basically involves the democratic leveling of artistic and cultural hierarchies, was often practiced by enslaved people as they donned outlandish European wear in an ironic way.

recognising where history left Black people out and learning to fill these gaps is critical for racial justice.
-in the words of fashion historian Jonathan Square, you cannot create a diverse fashion industry by adding Black designers and stirring. 
-the presence and celebration of modern Black designers is really just wokewashing, unless there is a corresponding push to revise fashion history as we know it to include the contributions of enslaved people in early America.

A black and white photo of a group of slaves in Virginia, mid-1800s.

However, a discussion of how Antebellum slavery built the modern textile (and fashion) industry would be remiss without touching on the forced and often unpaid labour used in the current fashion industry.

forced and unpaid labour is still relied upon today by many big fashion brands.
-the Antebellum cotton industry's huge success was in part due to the fact that plantation owners did not have to pay for labour.
-the modern garment production supply chain often relies on extremely cheap or unpaid labour not only for cotton production, but for every step that follows afterwards up until retail.
-unfortunately, opacity in the fashion supply chai makes preventing unpaid labour extremely difficult, which is why we advocate for shopping second-hand and boycotting fast fashion, if you have the means to do so.

current-day forced labour is a feminist issue as well as a human rights one.
-current-day "slavery" preys on the most vulnerable parts of society, which often include women and children.
-according to the International Justice Mission, 71% of forced labourers in the fashion supply chain are women and girls.
-UNICEF estimates that 11% of the world's children are engaged in illegal labour that prevents them from pursuing an education full-time.
-consumers can aid in abetting forced labour by selecting stores that are clear about their labour practices, urging other brands to be more transparent, and supporting groups that fight to end forced labour.

An old photo of a group of well-dressed slavery survivors in celebration of Juneteenth in 1900.

As always, it’s so important to recognise how Black people have been left out of or discriminated by the American system. How have we created an America that is inherently hostile to the ancestors of the people who built it? Consider the systems you are a part of this Juneteenth, and interrogate if they are designed with the success and comfortability of white people in mind.

If you’d like to read more, I’ve linked all of my sources for this piece here.

Boulder’s Secondhand Icons

Last month, I penned an article for Boulder Lifestyle Magazine all about the amazing characters in our resale community who have truly inspired me. These creative change-makers are all about secondhand, community, and making a difference. Read on for the full story, and thank you for being the heartbeat of the secondhand movement.

Read More »

The Gender Revolution

Hey Hey Hey Guys, Gals, and Non-Binary Pals! It’s us again, the Apocalypse queers from over yonder on Pearl St. Summer is on the horizon and we are manifesting Miu Miu mini skirt glory for our sunny weather walks 😍 Speaking of Miu Miu, it’s time to talk FASHION. We

Read More »

Bimbocore – A Feminine Reclamation

Hey B-word! Not that b-word… I mean Barbie! Duh!How are we feeling about the movie? Have you gotten a chance to see it yet? No spoilers here, but I just have to say the costumes truly exceeded my expectations. Barbie month is coming to an end, but our bimbo era is just getting started. What better way to

Read More »

De-Gendering Fashion

As anyone who has ever seen a Medieval painting, or an ancient statue, you may be familiar with the history of people (including men) in robes, dresses, and skirts. Like, duh. The most comfortable, breathable, simple way to clothe oneself!

Read More »

The Intrepid Fashionista’s Guide to the Internet

Today, I wanna talk about being a PERSON on the INTERNET. God, it’s so embarrassing, isn’t it? To have to interact with the whole world in a way that looks authentic but not too real and also be served up a platter of advertisements that serve as subconscious mind-foods until

Read More »

The Sustainability Paradox

Today, we’re talking about the S word. You know… s************y. Yes, we’re talking about sustainability. Or more specifically, the paradox of sustainability in fashion. To do this, we first have to define what sustainability *really* is. As consumers have increasingly shifted their preferences towards products that are organic, recycled, or

Read More »